I finally decided to install a delta 14 inch bandsaw riser block kit because I was tired of hitting that 6-inch ceiling every time I wanted to resaw a nice piece of walnut. If you've spent any time with a standard 14-inch cast-iron bandsaw, you know the drill. It's a workhorse for curves and general shop tasks, but that limited throat height feels like a leash the second you want to slice your own veneers or bookmatch a thick board. Adding a riser block is probably the most common "big" modification people do to these saws, and for good reason—it essentially doubles your vertical capacity.
Why bother with the extra height?
The standard capacity on a Delta 14-inch (or the many clones like JET, Grizzly, or Ridgid) is usually right around 6 to 6-and-a-quarter inches. That's fine for most furniture parts, but it's a total bottleneck for woodturning or serious resawing. By popping in a delta 14 inch bandsaw riser block kit, you jump that capacity up to 12 inches. It's a massive difference. Suddenly, you can take a log from the backyard and actually turn it into usable lumber, or you can take a thick piece of 8/4 maple and slice it into four thin, identical panels for a cabinet door.
Honestly, the first time I looked at the block, it seemed almost too simple to work. It's just a 6-inch hunk of cast iron that sits between the upper arm and the base of the saw. But that simple change transforms the tool. Instead of being "just a bandsaw," it starts acting like a mini sawmill. Of course, there's a bit more to it than just sticking a block in there, but the capacity jump is the main reason anyone puts themselves through the installation process.
What actually comes in the kit
When you buy a delta 14 inch bandsaw riser block kit, you're getting more than just the iron block itself. You need a few specific parts to make the saw functional again once it's six inches taller. Most kits include the riser block, a much longer bolt to hold the upper arm to the base, and several extensions for the blade guards and the guide post.
One thing people often forget is that your blade length changes completely. You can't use those standard 93.5-inch blades anymore. Once the kit is on, you're moving into 105-inch blade territory. You also get a longer "stiffener" or "guide post" for the blade guards. It's important to make sure the kit you get is compatible with your specific model of Delta, especially because the bolt patterns and the guide post diameters can vary slightly between the older USA-made models and the later imports.
The installation dance
Putting a delta 14 inch bandsaw riser block kit on isn't exactly rocket science, but it's definitely a bit of a workout. The upper arm of a cast-iron 14-inch saw is heavy—heavier than it looks. You really shouldn't try to do this solo unless you have a hoist or some very creative clamping solutions. I've seen guys do it alone, but I've also heard stories of cracked cast iron or smashed fingers when that upper arm tips over.
The process usually involves taking off the motor belt, the blade, and the entire upper assembly. You then set the riser block onto the base, aligning the pins (if your saw has them), and then hoist the upper arm onto the block. The long bolt goes through the whole sandwich to tie it all together. The trickiest part is usually the alignment. You want to make sure the top wheel is still perfectly in plane with the bottom wheel. If the riser block is slightly wonky or if you don't seat it right, your blade won't track properly, and you'll spend the next three hours cursing at your adjustment knobs.
Will the motor handle it?
This is the question everyone asks: "Is my 1/2 horsepower motor going to stall out trying to cut 12 inches of oak?" The short answer is maybe. Adding a delta 14 inch bandsaw riser block kit gives you the physical space to cut 12 inches, but it doesn't give you extra power.
If you're still running the original low-horsepower motor that came with many older Delta saws, you have to be patient. You can't just ram a 12-inch log through the blade. You need a sharp, low-TPI (teeth per inch) resaw blade—something like a 3 TPI or even a 2 TPI skip-tooth—to clear out the sawdust. If you try to use a fine-tooth blade or force the feed rate, you're going to bog down the motor or, worse, get the blade stuck. Many folks who install the riser kit eventually end up upgrading the motor to 1.5 or 2 HP to actually take full advantage of that new height.
The blade guard and guide post tweak
Once the block is in, you have to deal with the blade guard. The kit comes with extensions, but sometimes they require a little finessing. You want the guards to move smoothly up and down so you can still keep the guides close to the wood for shorter cuts.
I've noticed that on some cheaper aftermarket kits, the guide post extension can be a little bit out of spec. If it's even a hair too thick, it'll bind in the housing. If it's too thin, your guides will wiggle. It's worth taking a few minutes to clean off any shipping grease and maybe even hit the post with a bit of fine sandpaper to make sure it slides like butter. Having a 12-inch capacity doesn't mean much if your blade guides are rattling around or stuck five inches above the workpiece.
Blades: The 105-inch life
Switching to a delta 14 inch bandsaw riser block kit means you can't just walk into a big-box hardware store and grab a replacement blade off the shelf. Most of those stores only stock the standard 93.5-inch length. You'll probably be ordering your blades online or getting them custom-welded at a local saw shop.
The good news is that 105 inches is a very standard "custom" size because there are so many of these 14-inch saws with riser blocks out there. I actually prefer it because it forces me to buy better quality blades. When you're resawing 10 inches of maple, you really want a high-quality carbide-tipped blade or a premium carbon steel blade anyway. The extra length also means the teeth have more time to cool down before they hit the wood again, which theoretically helps the blade stay sharp a little longer.
Is the saw less stable?
Some people worry that adding six inches of height makes the saw "floppy." It's a fair concern. You're adding a joint in the middle of the main structural support of the machine. However, as long as that main bolt is torqued down properly and the mating surfaces of the cast iron are clean, it's remarkably solid.
I haven't noticed any extra vibration on my saw after adding the delta 14 inch bandsaw riser block kit. These 14-inch Deltas are built with a lot of mass, and as long as your wheels are balanced and your tires are in good shape, the height doesn't seem to introduce any new gremlins. Just make sure your stand is sturdy. If you have the saw on a mobile base, the higher center of gravity means you should be a little more careful when wheeling it across a bumpy shop floor.
Making the final call
At the end of the day, whether or not you should install a delta 14 inch bandsaw riser block kit comes down to what you actually make. If you're mostly doing scrollwork, small toys, or basic furniture parts, you might never need it. But if you've ever looked at a beautiful piece of thick lumber and thought, "Man, I wish I could split that in half," then the kit is the best money you'll spend on your shop.
It's a lot cheaper than buying a dedicated 18-inch or 20-inch bandsaw, which can cost thousands and take up a huge amount of floor space. The riser kit gives you that "big saw" capability while letting you keep the footprint and the familiarity of your trusty 14-inch Delta. It's one of those upgrades that, once you have it, you'll wonder how you ever got by without it. Just be prepared for the fact that once you can cut 12-inch boards, you're going to start hoarding a lot more wood.